One of my biggest complaints with the smart car is the woeful lack of dc outlets. There is one port located underneath the dash in the middle of the car, above the cup holders. I have yet to discern why exactly car companies think it’s a great idea to put the outlets near the cup holders. The cups always end up blocking access to the outlets, or the outlets get sticky from spilled drink.
Anyway, I have one outlet and two devices that need said outlet. One is my ipod, which is constantly plugged in because I use this ipod aux input adapter/charger. It bypasses the internal amp in the ipod and makes for much better sound quality than plugging the aux cable into the headphone jack. Since that needs to be plugged in constantly, when my blackberry dies (oh, and it dies quite frequently. I’m terrible at keeping it charged.), I either have to ride in silence or tough it out with the radio. This is entirely unacceptable to me, so I took it upon myself to remedy this issue.
I know that I could just buy a dc splitter, but there are a few reasons I opted against it. The main being the location of the aux jack in the glove box. It only makes sense to have the ipod charger also in the glove box. There’s nothing more embarrassing than having people want to look at the inside of your car and having your dash be a gigantic mangled mass of wires, and on top of that, there’s the whole theft issue. So, installing an alternate dc jack in the glove box it was.
There are two ways to do this, one being to buy a ponytail adapter (part #211 545 13 01. $4-5)from smart with the proper terminal(part #011 545 84 26. $2-3). I opted out of this because it was going to cost more than $7, not including the wiring and fuse which you’d still have to buy. And none of the Mercedes dealerships around here had either part in stock. More info about using the proper parts at evilution.
I saw on 451s that there was a much cheaper way to plug into the SAM unit, just plugging the fuse in directly. The friction will hold it in just fine.
here’s what you need:
The outlet from radioshack comes with this giant triangular mounting bracket and screws, which can be discarded along with the wires. I found the wire wasn’t quite long enough to reach all the way to the SAM unit and I had to run my own. Assuming you have a decently stocked toolbox/electrical kit, you can probably get out of this only having spent $10.
First thing is emptying out your glove box. The entire left-hand side of the box has clearance in the back for installing an outlet. You can put the outlet anywhere within the boxed area.
Next, drill the hole, or if you’re doing it the hard way, grab a quarter. Place the quarter where you would like the hole and trace around it with the knife. After about 5 mins, you should make it through and have a nice plug of plastic for your efforts. There is a small ridge of plastic on the side of the outlet, you may need to cut a small notch for that.
Attach the female quick connects to the wire and slide them onto the terminals of the outlet. Slide the outlet into place, pulling the wire into the floorboard.
The easiest way to run the wire is to remove the radio. I realize this sounds excessive, but it’s only 5 screws. A great walkthrough for removing the radio is over here on evilution. The only thing I have to add to it is what happens when you lose the screw behind the button panel. If you drop the screw, it will fall down behind the existing outlet, near the cupholder. Five screws and some tabs hold that piece of trim on. The screw that holds on the cupholder is one of these, and is a slightly larger torx bit.
After running the wires through to the driver’s side, the rest is pretty simple. Connect the loop end onto the ground and attach it to the grounding bolt. Then connect the remaining female quick connect to the lead, slide that over one leg of the fuse and plug the other leg of the fuse onto the side of the SAM unit. The four places closest to you are switch lives, the ones toward the front of the car are constant lives.
Plug in your ipod, do a dance of victory, and enjoy!
The smart fortwo has definitely been the best car I’ve ever worked on. Everything is super accessible, and the pieces are put together logically. I’m excited for when my warranty runs out and I get to really start modifying it!crossposted from fuzzdecay.com.
it's $6k-$8k for the full conversion with the engine and subframe. you can turbo it to 350hp! it's insane!
although, I won't likely do it, i'd lose all of my storage space. I am planning on procuring the brabus intake and exhaust, and sourcing an edm spec brabus ecu. they detune at the ecu here, even the brabus, to meet some retarded emissions law in california.
that should bring me from 92hp to around 120, which would likely be plenty.
Edited at 2009-07-12 09:26 pm (UTC)
i really have no idea. it seems like it'd be better to overstate the hp than understate it. maybe they want people to go into with low expectations?
although running it on 87 instead of 93 octane would decrease the hp by around 10, so maybe that is the case.